Today we replace the timing belt and accessories on Lexus RX300 with 1MZ-FE engine.
- Level: Intermediate;
- Difficult moments: crankshaft pulley removing, spec. tools required;
- Applicable: Lexus RX300, Lexus ES300, Toyota Harrier, Toyota Highlander, Toyota Windom, Toyota Camry V6, Toyota Avalon, Toyota Sienna, Toyota Estima.
You need the following tools:
- Socket set (½'', ¾'');
- Ratchet, at least two – ¾'' – small and ½'' with a long handle;
- ¾'' extension bars, universal joint ¾'';
- Torque wrench;
- 10mm hex wrench;
- Combination (ring/open end) wrench set;
- Pliers (combination, long nose, cutters);
- Long “-” screwdriver;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- Small hammer;
- Stud extractor set;
As well as accessories and chemicals:
- WD40 or equivalent;
- Lithium based grease;
- Thread sealant (medium strength - blue);
- Tie straps;
- Screws for gypsum board;
- A small mirror;
- Engine Coolant;
The following tools is strongly recommended if you want to make pulley remover tool by yourself:
- MMA or TIG Welding machine;
- Angle grinder;
|idlers and belt tensioner|
When you replace the timing belt you must also replace both idlers. Replacement of automatic belt tensioner is not required but recommended.
|water pump with gasket|
And the timing belt. It comes with a sticker on which you must specify the date and mileage at the moment of replacement.
In addition you need to buy oil seals – front crankshaft (oil pump body) and two camshaft seals.
|vane pump belt|
If you want, replace alternator/air conditioner and vane pump belts too.
To avoid accidentally damaging the surface of the front fender, I recommend to protect it with cloth. Fix the cloth with magnets.
Disconnect two ground strap connectors. Remove cruise control actuator. Remove engine moving control rod and the upper engine mounting bracket.
Loosen the locking bolt of the alternator belt tensioner, loosen the fixing alternator bolt, turn the belt tensioner bolt until the alternator belt can be removed. Remove the belt.
Place the vehicle on a jack and remove the right front wheel, remove the plastic apron fender (two bolts) to get access to the crankshaft pulley. If it possible, always get the removed bolts in their places to avoid losing them.
Loosen the belt tensioner bolt and vane pump mounting bolt, move the pump up and remove the belt.
It's time to remove the crankshaft pulley. It may be quite difficult, because bolt is tighten very hard with thread sealant. If you have impact wrench, you can try to remove the bolt, but I could not do that, although the maximum torque of my wrench is more than 800 Nm.
Please don't try to remove the bolt using starter or locking flywheel with screwdriver. Such attempts may result in severe starter or flywheel damage.
According to the official repair manual you need to use special tools (SST) from Toyota, but you can make the tool by yourself.
To make an SST you'll need a piece of pipe 50 mm long with outer diameter of 90 mm and the steel strip 30x5 mm in length about 700 mm, two bolts M8 x 60mm.
|all dimensions given in millimeters|
Fix the tool with M8 bolts to pulley body, rest the handle into the ground and loosen the pulley nut.
After unscrewing the nut, remove the pulley. Don't use hammer or crowbar - pulley material is very fragile. Also don't use two or three-jaw gear puller that fixed on the edge of the pulley. If you notice, the pulley consists of two parts - inner base and outer crown, these parts are separated by a damper, therefore the three-jaw puller can split the puller into two parts or break off its edge.
The best solution is to refine our DIY tool to hold the pulley so it became a puller.
The best solution is to refine our DIY tool to hold the pulley so it became a puller.
You need 30x5mm steel strip length of 90 mm. Nut and bolt M10 x 70mm. Nut must be welded to the strip.
Ignore the extra welded edge, the tool was strengthened, because the bolt was tightened incredibly strong.
Remove the 4 bolts and remove the lower timing belt cover and belt guide. Do not lose the crankshaft pin.
Disconnect wire protector clamps, remove the 5 bolts and remove the upper timing belt cover. Remove the alternator bracket.
Remove the two bolts and the nut that holding the engine mounting bracket.
It's impossible to pull out the bracket cause it rests in the body when you try to remove the bracket. To fix this problem we need to jack up the engine for a couple of centimeters (about one inch). Be sure to use wide wooden bar and a rubber to avoid damaging of the oil pan.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise and set the first cylinder at top dead center. To do this, align the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the oil pump body.
Check that the marks on the camshaft pulleys are aligned with the marks on the belt inner cover. If not, turn the crankshaft one more revolution (picture of the marks will be given below with a new belt). Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.
If you decided to reuse the old timing belt, place the marks on a belt to match three marks on camshafts and crankshaft pulleys and mark the direction of rotation of the belt.
Remove the two bolts and remove the belt tensioner. Remove the timing belt. Remove the upper idler. Using the hex wrench, remove the tensioner idler. Do not lose the washer.
If you decided to use old idlers, then inspect them. Idler pulleys must turn smoothly, if push idler pulley and it will be able to make a couple turns, then there is no bearing grease. Rocking roller axle - strong backlash should not be.
Remove the camshaft pulleys. To keep the pulleys from spinning a special tool is required, but it can be done with the old timing belt and matching wooden board as shown below (secure old timing belt with screws).
|how to remove camshaft pulley|
Remove the 6 bolts and remove the inner timing belt metal cover.
Drain the engine coolant.
I can't pull out the water pump because of studs. To get the pump out we need to remove the top stud. This will require the stud extractor set. Remove the pump mounting bolts and one nut and remove the pump. Be careful, some engine coolant may leak. Do not forget to remove the old pump gasket.
|water pump removed|
|stud extractor set|
Wipe the pump seat on the block. Install a new gasket and secure a new pump. Return the stud in place.
Now we need to replace the oil seals. Remember the depth of old seal. The simplest way to pull out the seal – to use a screw. Carefully type the screw in the center of the seal (between the shaft and housing) and screw it for a couple of turns. Remove the oil seal with pliers. Usually only one screw is enough.
Wipe the seal seat and shaft. Lubricate the lips and the outer edge of the new seal with lithium based grease. Tap the new oil seal in place by your fingers.
Install the inner metal cover (6 bolts, torque 8.5 Nm (75 in.lbf)).
Install the crankshaft timing pulley.
Install the upper idler pulley (torque 45 Nm (32 ft lbf)).
Install the tensioner idler pulley (apply thread sealant to the bolt. Torque 34 Nm (25 ft lbf)).
Check that the idlers rotate freely and the tension idler bracket moves without jamming.
Install the camshaft pulleys (torque 125 Nm (94 ft lbf)).
Please note that the far pulley must be installed belt guide-side out, and the nearest pulley – guide-side in.
|camshaft pulley in place|
|idler pulley in place|
|tensioner idler pulley in place|
Attention! In the photo above, tensioner is just for photos, do not install it before installing the belt.
Check that the camshaft and crankshaft are on marks. Install a new timing belt. A new timing belt has four marks (2 camshaft marks, one crankshaft mark and front mark “FR”). Please obey the belt installation order, otherwise it will be very difficult to install:
- The mark "FR" (front) with an arrow should look aside the engine;
- Align the dotted line mark with the mark on the crankshaft pulley;
- Get a belt to the water pump pulley;
- Get the belt around the nearest camshaft pulley aligning the mark on the belt with the mark on the pulley and fix the belt on the pulley with a tie-strap;
- Get the belt to the upper idler;
- Get the belt around the far camshaft pulley, matching the mark on the belt with the mark on the pulley and fix the belt on the pulley with a tie-strap;
- Put the belt on the tensioner idler (new belt will go tight);
- Install the belt tensioner (torque 27 Nm (20 ft lbf)), but do not release the push rod.
Check marks alignment. Especially carefully at the far camshaft pulley (you need a mirror and a flashlight).
|crankshaft timing pulley mark|
|camshaft pulley timing mark|
|far camshaft timing mark (in mirror)|
|timing belt "front" mark|
If all marks is okey, then it is time to release the belt tensioner pushing rod - pull out the lock. Wait for a while, and check the marks again. Then turn the crankshaft clockwise for two complete revolutions and recheck the marks. If all goes well, then we done.
Installation is in the reverse order of removal:
- Install the engine mounting bracket (the engine must be jacked up again), secure the mounting bracket (two bolts and nut, torque 28 Nm (21 ft.lbf));
- Install the upper timing belt cover (5 bolts, 8.5 Nm (75 in.lbf));
- Install timing belt guide (cup side outwards and align with shaft pin);
- Install the lower timing belt cover (4 bolts, 8.5 Nm (75 in.lbf));
- Install the crankshaft pulley (torque 215 Nm (159 ft.lbf)). I recommend to install the vane pump belt at this step;
- Install the alternator bracket (torque 28 Nm (21 ft.lbf)). But do not tighten the bolt yet;
- Tighten the vane pump belt and secure 2 bolts (torque 43 Nm (32 ft.lbf));
- Install the bracket and the engine moving control rod;
- Tighten the alternator belt and secure mounting and lock bolts;
- Install cruise control actuator (torque 8 Nm (69 in.lbf));
- Take the plastic fender apron in place (2 bolts, torque 8 Nm (69 in.lbf));
- Do not forget to fill engine with coolant.
That's all. Good luck!